Luckily for us, he has decided to come back, yet this time with a Couture presentation. He chose last week as a natural time to do so, fittingly following the Paris Haute Couture shows. In the past, some London Designers used to show their collection soon after Paris week in July to continue the momentum, and so the French Salon at Claridge’s hotel seemed the perfect location.
His show was of only 18 outfits, and they were undeniably, incredibly chic. Oakwell was initially inspired by Christopher and Robert Ironside’s scenic designs for the glamorous production of the ballet Sylvia, by Sir Frederick Ashton, which was shown for the first time at Sadler’s Wells in 1952.
Nicholas has always loved theatre productions, and it was last year, after seeing Sylvia at the Royal Opera House that his desire to show a Couture line started to really develop. He had previously been designing gowns for private clients, but this was the time to create and fulfill the dream of producing an entire collection.
Like Sylvia, the Nicholas Oakwell show was the story of a huntress, presented in three acts: day, cocktail and evening.The raglan cut leather jacket, in black, was lined with navy cashmere and complemented the tube skirt in a shape reminiscent of Grace Kelly in the ’60s. There was also the hand pleated jersey dress, ornately adorned with the most delicate of lace, which segued beautifully into a coat made of thinly cut leaves which screamed daywear couture. Not for everyone, but exquisite for those who like to indulge, it was undeniable that the navy fur coat added pure glamour
But it was towards the end of the show that Nicholas showed his real talent for craftsmanship: the multiple ruffles of the big ball gown were just perfect in their degrade’ greys, and with its crystals top the dress would make a perfect red carpet outfit. The big opera cape was in silk and printed with the original theatre stage set of the Ironside brothers, truly breathtaking.
A selection of corsets were shown here and there, inspired by the continuing lean towards ballet costumes so prevalent in trends this year. Additionally, some bags and the belts had metal arrows as reference to the hunting theme of Sylvia, every true predatory woman must be accessorized fabulously after all.
What will he do next? Who is to say, but for now, long live London Couture…
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